The chef sources as close to home as he can, scouring farmers' markets for the best product he can lay his hands on. Every one of his plates is a benchmark preparation. And amazingly, when the menu changes — as it does weekly, sometimes daily, sometimes even in the middle of service — every one of the new plates will be just as good.

Don't worry about brushing up on your French. You won't need a passport for this gastronomical trip. Just bring your appetite and lust for good living. The exciting surroundings, congenial service, and savory menu will delight your senses and transport you to Europe for the evening.